Maddin-Walch European Vacation: Nine Countries in Four Weeks

By Globe Trotters Michelle Walch & John Maddin

Mona Lisa Mosh Pit at the Louvre

There it was. The room was packed to the gills with sweaty, excited, grumpy gawkers. I got the coveted selfie with the Mona Lisa. Rather than being in the company of fellow peaceful, contemplative fine art admirers, we were jostling for our long-awaited chance to position our phones with our faces to snap a pic to prove that YES I WAS THERE, SUCK IT, Y’ALLS. Most gallery-goers were virtually crowd surfing towards da Vinci’s celebrated painting.

The most common remark I have heard since seeing it in person has been, “It’s smaller than I thought.”

18 months before departure

Our high school-aged kid’s ideal summer vacation is to stay in her room, racking up too much screen time the whole three months, so it was a surprise when we found out her school was organizing a two-week trip to Europe, and she wanted to go. From that first trip planning meeting with her teachers, we had 18 months to make payments, get passports, and plan.

Then I had a brilliant idea. I thought, since we would already be on the continent, why don’t we go to Rome and Paris as well? I thought it was really clever, tacking on additional travel while already in the region. Right? More on that later.

The tour company gave us our tentative travel dates, about nine months out. I decided to start making reservations and buying tickets for our onward travel. I tried to make sure that I was making flexible arrangements. Airbnb reservations are generally flexible. I paid a bit extra for some tickets to allow for changes, or at least one change.

In Country

Berlin, Germany.  Confronting ugly history

The first four days began in Berlin. We visited the Berlin Wall, Check Point Charlie, the Topography of Terror Museum, and the Prussian roots of military and bureaucracy..

Berlin was the first stop of a marathon of hoofing it around mythical European cities, sights, and stairs. So. Many. Stairs. I didn’t worry about getting my steps in. I was concerned about getting too many steps in.

When this American, like many Americans, ventured out to see Europe for the first time, I thought it would be a mix of fanciful, old-world architecture, statuary, and fountains—a community of bon vivants and decadent evening bacchanal boites. Berlin, however, is a different beast. The name itself conjures up dual visions of the Weimar Republic, with Joel Grey singing “Wilkommen” in Cabaret,  juxtaposed with old newsreels of Nazi’s marching and Hitler screeching from the Reichstag building.

That was not our experience.

Berlin out of the ashes

Berlin was flattened during World War II. After the war, the city was quickly rebuilt to get the population rehoused and back to a normal pattern of life. Priority was utility. And it shows.

Our first full day in Berlin was spent walking around the city, where we saw cathedrals, government buildings such as the Reichstag. We visited the Brandenburg Gate, which symbolized the Cold War and then the reunited Germany. While there, we got to hang out with a guy from Mexico dressed as Pan from Pan’s Labyrinth. Strangely fitting, I suppose…

We faced the difficult past of Germany, and how the country is handling that. Our visits included the Holocaust Memorial, Berlin Alexanderplatz, Checkpoint Charlie, and the Topography of Terror Museum. The latter was a former SS headquarters, and now displays the outline of the history of the Nazi regime. There are bullets from World War II still in the buildings, serving as a visceral reminder of past conflicts. The Berlin Wall remnants have an eerie quality to them.

Day 4. Dresden, Germany: The storybook quality of classical European architecture in real life

Dresden is 120 miles from Berlin. It too was leveled during World War II. Yet the people of Dresden insisted that the buildings, streets, statuary, and other hardscape be rebuilt. Considering they were in Communist-controlled East Germany, it is impressive that it was accomplished, and certainly well worth it.

Restoring the fanciful elements that come to mind when travelers visit Germany and Europe is to be applauded. We visited the Frauenkirche church, which was largely destroyed during the fire-bombing of Dresden and rebuilt by the citizens to its original grandeur. When it was finished, the final touch was a beautiful gold cross placed at the altar. At the ceremony to commemorate it, it was revealed that the gold cross was created by an American goldsmith whose father piloted one of the bomber planes that took part in the firebombing of the city. Creating the cross was his own way of trying to atone in a small way for the firebombing.

We managed to climb the steeple at the Frauenkirche on this trip. It was strenuous for John and me, but easy for our kid, some of her classmates, and her hyper-kinetic German language teacher wasted no time racing to the top. It was worth it – far-reaching views of this lovely city of terracotta roofs, ornate castles, filigree cathedrals, grand buildings crowned with statuary.

Day 5. Prague, Czech Republic: Beauty in the streets. Statuary, architecture, fountains, and the Franz Kafka book shop!

I kept hearing about how beautiful Prague is. Upon arrival, the city did not disappoint. Being surrounded by colorful buildings, each with its own distinct style, lifts the soul. The storybook qualities of Prague – and for that matter, all the cities we visited in Europe – leave you gazing in wonder. Why is such craftsmanship largely absent in the U.S., I wonder? Was utility prioritized over aesthetics stemming from the white Protestant work ethic? Possibly. See above about Berlin.

The highlight for John and me was the Vitalis Bookshop! Located at 22 Golden Lane – so named because of the number of goldsmiths that lived and worked there –  we were told that the shop was originally a flat owned by Franz Kafka’s sister, and he purportedly wrote The Castle and The Trial there. I may have gone a little overboard buying so much swag from this shop. The ref=”https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/pi%C3%A8ce_de_r%C3%A9sistance”>pièce de résistance was the Franz Kafka Metamorphosis flip book.

Saxon Switzerland National Park, Germany: Sweeping views and sandstone mountains

<p>Next up was Saxon Switzerland Park to experience panoramic vistas and stunning geological formations, especially the white, pillowy boulder pillars, a la Lord of the Rings. There is some elevation gain, and you can see the Elbe River down below, which cuts through the land, creating a steep valley.

Brno, Czech Republic: Monk Gregor Mendel FTW

One thing that was kind of cool about this tour was stopping at places visitors may not normally think about. We stopped at Mendel University to visit the Mendel Museum. That’s right: a university and museum named in honor of the father of genetics, Monk Gregor Mendel! Total ag nerd/science geek out moment.

Bratislava: One of the oldest castles/settlements in Europe

Unassuming Bratislava, Slovakia, contains signs of settlements dating back to 3500 B.C.E. Our tour group managed to walk through the castle and spend a total of approximately 90 minutes here. So we spent the least amount of time in one of the most ancient places in Europe!

Munich, Germany’s City Slicker Surfers

That’s right. You can surf on the River Eisbach in the English Garden Park, Munich. It’s a standing, manmade wave, constructed in the 1970’s. Totally makes sense if you live in a landlocked area and can’t get to the ocean anytime soon.

The Dachau Concentration Camp in Germany

I’m not sure how to describe a concentration camp other than a horrific, grim reminder of hatred. Systematic destruction of people who have been demonized and otherized because those in charge wanted to blame someone other than themselves for the world’s ills. Dachau is set up now as a museum, with the former SS administration building utilized as an information center detailing the history of the Nazi genocide program. A couple of the buildings used as prisoner quarters are still standing, with the beds/bunks rebuilt to reflect their use at the time. And then there is the original crematorium and gas chambers, on display. It’s sad and horrifying and can be overwhelming, but I would recommend everyone make a visit, to remind us of what limits people will go to when madness takes over a government. Sadly, as of this writing in 2026, state-sanctioned madness continues around the world.

The Sound of Salzburg

I can understand why the Von Trapp family was motivated to sing. Salzburg is in a arboreal, semi-mountainous setting. It’s a quaint, mountain town where you can feel life slow down. At least that’s the impression I got. I missed the opportunity to visit Mozart’s childhood home. Boo.

Berchtesgaden, the Eagle’s Nest, Germany

Kehlsteinhaus (Eagle’s Nest) is a symbol of German engineering, posturing, and planning horrors in an idyllic setting. The road, the elevator, and the building are impressive achievements. The whole design on top of this steep climb was meant to intimidate. The fancy brass elevator and the tunnel to it are an accomplishment in controlled explosions, blasting the rock for human passage.

While there was a call to destroy it, the Eagle’s Nest was preserved, and ticket sales go to charity, according to the website. It’s still uncomfortable being in a place where some of the worst of the worst the world has seen congregated to devise atrocities inflicted against targeted, marginalized populations in Europe.

Day 7: Vienna, Austria, is the Fancy White City

Vienna is rich in classical Western art and culture, and it was a real delight in being surrounded by the European masters at every turn. It was a pleasant surprise to discover the Kunst Historisches Museum, which houses many noteworthy works and artifacts from ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome, and The Renaissance. I still can’t believe were could observe scores of legendary pieces. Unbeknownst to us, Pieter Bruegel The Elder’s works are on display here. It was a joy to come across.

I understand why Court Composer Salieri in Peter Schaffer’s Amadeus was thrilled to live in the city of music. Vienna is a collection of classical beauty and artistic expression. We attended a classical music performance that was the epitome of European orchestral technique and a pastiche of renowned composers.

Meet the Hapsburgs

The Schonbrunn Palace was a sight to behold and wander through. Constructed by the Hapsburgs in a flagrant attempt to copy the Versailles Palace of Louis IV of France (but at 2/3 scale so as not to anger the Sun King), the Habsburgs created a resplendent “summer” dwelling to show off their wealth, power, and lots of paintings of their inbred family members (gotta keep that family line pure, right? Even if it leads to certain genetic mishaps and curiosities like the “Hapsburg Chin”). Marie Antoinette spent her childhood here. So much beauty, indoors and out, despite the complicated familial undercurrent.

Day 10: The castle that inspired Disney

Did you know that Neuschwanstein Castle was designed by a stage set creator rather than an architect? The set designer was commissioned by “Mad” King Ludwig. This is the infamous castle that made Ludwig’s name and bankrupted Bavaria, with the result that Ludwig had an “unfortunate accident” not long after it was finished. If you’ve ever seen the old Dick Van Dyke film Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, that’s Neuschwanstein standing in for Baron Bomburst’s castle in the second half of the film. And of course, Walt Disney got his inspiration for the Sleeping Beauty Castle at Disneyland from King Ludwig’s bout of extravagant money squandering. Take lots of pictures when you go, and make sure to sign up MONTHS in advance for a tour of the inside of the castle. We kinda didn’t do that, so all our pics are of the outside. Fun!

Liechtenstein: Don’t blink or you might miss this country

The main reason our tour went out of its way to stop for 90 minutes in the fourth smallest country in Europe was to add a notch to our travel belts. Liechtenstein was founded by Charles VI in 1719. The territories that now make up the country were originally purchased between 1699 to 1712 by an Austrian noble family named Liechtenstein so they could have a seat in the Imperial Diet.

My impressions of the country: steep Alpine hills, even more castles, and juice boxes containing wine. The only other reason to go to this micro country is to set up a business tax-free.

Final Day of the Trip. Switzerland – Cows, hills, and yodeling

The hills are indeed alive – with tourists, trains, and livestock. We took the train up the Queen of the Mountain. It’s green with forests, steep and scenic. It’s also amazing to see quintessential Swiss life for real. Farmhouses that have been in families for generations are on a sharp incline in the mountains. Bucolic doesn’t begin to describe it. I marveled at the lush gardens, colorful folk art adorning the farmhouses, and foot paths crisscrossing the verdant, hilly landscape. The Swiss higher elevations are magical.

Bloody Romans!

HAD to do it. After we left the student tour in Switzerland, we took the INCREDIBLE high-speed rail from Lucerne all the way down to Rome.  John said he could write an extended blog all its own about Europe’s high-speed rail system; suffice to say, it is everything you’ve heard about and more. There’s nothing like moving along the countryside at 120 mph or more! Next stop, Rome…

Rome really is amazing; cobblestone streets, statuary, so many fountains, the Colosseum, and more historical sites than you can shake a Gladius at. It’s hard to comprehend the depth of Western Civilization’s roots in this place. Additionally, there are other random points of interest, such as the drinking water fountains throughout the city that are still supplied by aqueducts and not filtered –  there’s still lead in the aqueduct troughs. Still, the water is constantly moving, so it doesn’t have time to become contaminated.

SPQR

Historical side note: during the days of the Roman Republic and Empire, the people of Rome referred to themselves as “Senatus Populus Que Romanus”, the Senate and the People of Rome. And all over the streets of Rome you’ll see sewer grates with SPQR stamped on them. VERY cool

We did the obligatory Vatican tour. Man, that place is huge. So much church! Craning my neck to observe Michelangelo’s “God Creates Adam” on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel was worth it. But if you want to see Raphael’s famous painting of the angels looking down at you from one of the Vatican ceilings, THAT’s on the other side of the Vatican from where we were. Maybe next time… Year 2025 was a Jubilee Year, meaning that when you pass through the doors of St. Peter’s Basilica during a Jubilee Year, all your sins are forgiven. I guess it worked. I didn’t burst into flames when I walked through. Win!

We limped (well, I limped) to the Spanish Steps and then walked a block or so to Trevi Fountain. The Keats-Shelly House is right there, in view of the Steps, a significant place for literary types. Fans of filmmaker Frederico Fellini will think of that scene from his movie La Doce Vita.

Art flourishes in Florence

There is an abundance of art, beautiful buildings, and everything in Florence. It was amazing to see the statue of David in the Accademia Gallery (thank you for keeping your gaffas about David’s bits to yourself) and The Birth of Venus at the Uffizi Gallery. The latter was a pleasant surprise.  We didn’t realize it was there!  Gotta say this about The David. I notice that not much is ever discussed about the expression in David’s eyes. Michelangelo was able to create David’s countenance with pondering intent. When you go to see him, remember: his eyes are up there.

Did you know? “Florence” translates to “flow,” referring to the Arno River. I thought it meant floral.

Marseilles by the Wine Dark Sea

After our TOO-brief time in Rome and Florence, off we went to France. First stop, Marseilles. There is a quiet, artsy calm about Marseilles, at least how we experienced it,  once you get past the glitzy party zone on the waterfront. Public art by local artists covers the old city streets and structures. For example, walls on buildings and stairwells all plastered with amazing artwork. NONE of it commissioned, either! Various artists just decided a wall here or there, needed something to cover the drab medieval concrete, and nobody got huffy about it and sprayed it off with a hose. Europeans LOVE art!  Art is integrated into daily life. We stayed in an Airbnb, you could only walk to – no cars allowed in the neighborhood!

It has been over twenty years since I had been to the Mediterranean Sea. Here I was again, astounded that I had reached a faraway location once more. It was a joy to be here with my family as well. The Mediterranean is truly a deep, dark blue, and it is understandable how it can conjure up stories about mythological beings. We sat on the pier for some time, taking it all in. We saw the Chateau d’If – where Alexander Dumas imprisoned Edmund Dante’s for 14 years in “The Count of Monte Cristo.”

Train to Paris

I did not expect that finding a cab on Sunday morning to the Marseilles train station to be difficult, but it was. It took about 30 minutes to find one to hail, and we made it to the train station with time to spare. It’s about a 3-hour ride from Marseilles to Paris – ON HIGH SPEED RAIL!!!! – and a great opportunity to see the French countryside. Magnifique!

Oui Oui Paris!

I was really excited about going to the Louvre and seeing the Eiffel Tower, and just plain Being In Paris. It’s really sensory overload. In summer, it is a sweaty overload.  Further, it is a walking overload. I’ll save the kvetching for later. It is quite stunning to see the collection of art through the ages. And as far as the Mona Lisa is concerned, here’s a free tip. DON’T get up early to get there and try to beat the crowds. EVERYONE from all over the world tries to do that (including us), and it’s a crowded, no-elbow-room mess.

After we’d wandered through the Louvre for several hours (the Famous Paintings! The Famous Sculptures! The Famous architectural wonders!), we wandered back to the only cafe in the museum to rest our feet over a snack. We finished early and John decided to try to find a famous painting that he thought was in the museum, and had to go back through the Mona Lisa room. This was around 2:00 in the afternoon, and the room was MUCH easier to navigate. It was still a little crowded, but under those circumstances, nothing like the morning mayhem.

The Eiffel Tower is the centerpiece of the Parisian skyline</strong>

Eiffel Tower is quite majestic, and I can see why it is so iconic: it is an elegant spire amongst a flat land backdrop. Paris has certainly benefited from this early addition to its skyline. The wrought-iron lattice structure built for the 1889 World’s Fair caused quite a commotion before construction started. In the present day, suffice to say, the consensus is that the gently-sloping obelisk is a delight to behold, with its iron architecture looking like delicate filigree. We didn’t go up in it this time, however ext time we definitely will.

Visiting Shakespeare and Co. Bookstore was fun as well. There was a LINE to get into the store, which something that rarely happens. Literary tourist nerd-out moment!

Walking around Paris is delightful on its own, even without paying to go into a museum or archaeological site. The Paris Metro Art Nouveau architecture and signage by Hector Guimard is a real treat and free to see. Like most European cities we visited on this journey, the creative process is evident everywhere, and it goes back over a thousand years. There is attention to detail on the hardscape, elevating everyday experiences.

From Frankfort back to PDX

We wrapped up our four-week sojourn, flying back to the States from Frankfort, Germany August 3. I’ve been processing the whole trip and what I would do differently next time to make things more comfortable and less exhausting. Stay tuned for a future blog to address this/ These things, they take time.