Reflections on the Southwest Road Trip 2024

A ten day whirlwind tour of Zion, the Grand Canyon, and Antelope Canyon was not enough. Or maybe it was just right.

By Michelle Walch & John Maddin

A trip that was a decade in the making had finally taken place. My family and I had arrived at the piece de resistance of the National Parks, the Big Kahuna of geological wonders, and one of my personal white whales of travel destinations, the Grand Canyon.

Our whirlwind tour of Zion National Park, Grand Canyon National Park, Glen Canyon Recreation Area, and Antelope Slot Canyon. And driving. Sooooo much driving.

Since we write children’s books about natural history, we really ought to visit places our books highlight in terms of flora and fauna. Maybe we can get some books in the gift shops as well…

Oh Boy! We’re going to Boise!

The first leg consisted of taking I84 across Oregon into Idaho, where we stayed out in the burbs of Boise with my sister’s family. We bonded with my niece’s pet reptiles. A foreshadow to the animals that inhabit our destinations. Sleep was short but the rest was helpful. We had ten hours of driving ahead of us the next day.

Zion National Park : The Narrows Escape

Getting to Zion was a whole day’s drive through Utah. Best traffic signs: “Occasional Severe Dust Storms,” interspersed along Highway 15. Perfect for settling my travel anxiety.

At the end of the day, the sun was setting and after listening to Weird Al Yankovic’s “The Biggest Ball of Twine in Minnesota,” more than a few times, we turned onto Highway 9. Then we saw it. The John Ford Western landscape, the dust swirling around in the twilight, making for a dramatic entrance to the mythical land.

We settled into our cabin in Springdale, and saw a dreamlike sunset and twilight. The moon was out, and the tall, columnar rock pillars that define the park looked like castle ramparts. Truly majestic.

We went up the canyon the next day. Towering geological formations with names like The Court of the Patriarchs at every winding turn up the narrow valley following the Virgin River.  The Biblical names can only mean one thing. We are in Utah.

The heat was pretty intense. Sadly, I don’t do well in the heat anymore. As much as I was able to take in the tall red walls of the canyon, it was difficult under the punishing sun. None of us were up to hiking up The Narrows. We didn’t even think to rent trekking poles and other gear that is located right at the gate of the park. Too bad! Missed opportunity. One of many.

The wheels on the park shuttle bus go round and round

The morning of our last day in Zion we decided to take one last quick trip into the canyon. Getting into the park consists of taking a bus from Springdale which gets you into the park, and from there you take a succession of little bus rides around the various points of interest. So, we’re waiting in Springdale that morning and along comes Grandma, her two married daughters, and their collection of little nippers all simultaneously excited and bored senseless by the bus wait. So what does Grandma do? She keeps her grandkids occupied with a never-ending rendition of The Wheels On The Bus Go Round And Round…and round…and round…allllll the way into the park. Our ears were ringing with bus wheels all through the morning hike. Our daughter came up a with a verse, “The driver on the bus says I need a drink, let’s go to the bar.”

Overheard on the park shuttle: Bro power naps

On the way back we got onto the Springdale bus only to find it completely stuffed and the only spot to stand and hold on to a pole was in the center of the bus by the articulated accordion section. Seated near us were a group of stoned Twenty-somethings who kept up a weed-infused conversation all the way back into town over whether or not they should immediately hit the bars and start Partying or if they should first take a 20 minute (they were very precise about this) Power Nap first and THEN go Party at the bars. Round and round the conversation went. Like, Dude, we should take a 20 minute Power Nap first, like, you know? Yeah, a 20 Minute Power Nap, you’re so right, dude! Like, Dude, chill….

Day 4: Get your kicks on Highway 89

Personally, I got more out of the drive through Glen Canyon – more comfortable with the air conditioning. I hung up my Adventure Hat awhile back. That said, the road through the park back to the main highway gave me a very good sense of the lay of the land. We drove over the Cooper Dam, and in the Glen Canyon area, which is a spectacular journey of geomorphic splendor. Striations, undulations, and a panorama of colors is plentiful. And it’s a perfect segue to the Grand Canyon.

Days 5: 7 The Grandest of Canyons

After seven hours on the road, the anticipation for the Grand Canyon had reached its peak. Just as we made the turn onto the Grand Canyon road, a cop pulled us over. Ugh. Speeding. I guess we were so ready to see the Biggest Hole in the World. That coulda put a damper on an otherwise rewarding trip. But screw it; nothing is gonna harsh my mellow.

With great anticipation, we made our way down the road to the park gate. We got our first glimpse of the Grand Canyon, during sunset. It is pretty breath-taking. In more ways than one if you hike the darn thing. The first glimpses of the gaping maw of the storied chasm are unreal, yet here we are. We drove through the gate on Hwy 64, with anticipation and mental drum rolls, and saw the wide hollow, the rock formations in the pastel wash of the setting sun.

In the right light, The Canyon is stunning in a soft light. When I stood on the edge, I could feel its vastness, which was probably an updraft wafting through the deep, dry cleft.

I’m just glad I finally saw the darn thing!

When I looked down at the trails, I tried to process actually hiking them. In the unrelenting heat. I couldn’t imagine it. But it would be fascinating to really experience more of the canyon, from the vantage point from the bottom. I got tired just thinking about it. Maybe someday we will do the donkey ride. And hope I don’t freak the poor creature out with my anxiety.

We spent a total of 3 days at the Canyon, doing the bus tour and stops along the South Rim from one end to the other, taking lots of pictures, and at one point at Hermit’s Rest we met the famous Canyon ravens who were wandering all over the place. John named one of them Edgar (of course).

And at about that moment, with a LOUD BANG!!! of lightning and thunder there was a sudden rainstorm at that part of the Canyon. Startling as hell. I was ready to run like hell thinking LIGHTNING – GET OUT but John was just standing there at the overlook watching the storm and laughing. Bahiyyih was alternately laughing and a little freaked out (“I want to LIVE!!!” she said just after the lightning) but otherwise amused by all of it. I think. I’m still counting the new grey hairs that sprouted during the lightning. It’s all Mother Nature’s fault.

Horseshoe Bend and Antelope Canyon

Finally we had to leave the Canyon for our return trip, but we made the time for a couple stops along the way. We drove up to Horseshoe Canyon for a brief look-see. This one was amazing in it’s symmetry, and geometric presentation. Then it was off to Page to check into a hotel and then off to Antelope Canyon.

This was really spectacular, as beautiful in its own way as the Canyon, but this we could see up close and personal. Antelope Canyon is a narrow slot canyon where you can walk through and see the amazing light show display of natural light on the inner walls and geological formations. It’s a photographer’s Mecca, and even with our dinky phone and Canon cameras we took some amazing pictures. Sadly we had to move fairly quickly because we were in a tour group like everyone else, so it was constantly moving from one bend of the slot canyon to the next, take a few pics, then off to the next bend.

Once we got out the other end our tour guide gave an amusing little show with his laser pen. There are numerous little desert lizards crawling around the area, and like little cats they like to chase laser pens. We were too busy laughing at this to take any videos, and by the time we remembered to get the phones out the lizard scampered off into some hidey hole. Ah, well, memories.

Concluding the whirlwind tour of Zion, Grand Canyon, and Antelope Canyon

Sight seeing over, it was time to head home. In stages. First stage was driving up (back through all the endless desert scrub land and tumbleweeds) to Salt Lake City where we stayed overnight at a little Air B’n’B owned by a Bosnian immigrant named Dzenna. She was terrific, and our overnight stay was too short for all the conversation.

Then, back through more endless desert scrub land and tumbleweeds through Boise and back into Oregon to Baker City. Finally, another half day of endless desert scrub lands and tumbleweeds before the familiar green of the Portland area welcomed us home.